To label Rick Owens’ style as a goth or grunge would be a huge mistake. Admittedly, the California-born, Paris-based designer has a subversive leaning that gave us draped leather jackets and strapped wedge boots. But as seen in his latest S/S 2012 runway collection, Rick is always bringing something new to the plate.”I try to make clothes the way Lou Reed does music—direct, with minimal chord changes, and sweet but kind of creepy,” says the remarkably conceptual designer.
In a show that was more glam than grunge, Rick showcases several new forms of elegance . One particular standout, which he dubs as “the pillar”, is a long, lean column skirt that manages to stand out, yet perfectly complement, pretty much anything it’s paired with. This includes the line’s selection of avant-garde jackets—from zippered and boxy, to long and sleeveless, to Empire-cut with leather drawstrings. The silhouettes also feature softly-curved, sculptural shoulders, over-sized Oriental cuffs, and loose billowy sleeves.
Managing to make a collection that is completely covered, yet beyond sensual, Rick once again shows why he’s feted as a one of fashion’s true visionaries.