With Thierry Mugler out of the equation, one could have imagined that the MUGLER’s new creative director, Nicola Formichetti, would quickly let his inner creativity develop to its full capacity to impregnate his new turf. However, over the past 3 seasons, we have seen a lot of “retenue” from his part: he repeatedly bet on conservative power-dresses, rarely taking risks with either colours or fabric. Finally though, with the help of womenswear designer Sébastien Peigné, it seems that the artist within him has finally started taking his big boy steps. And started running straight away: this Spring, Mugler stores will be home to a wide range of more relaxed and, above all, more seductive pieces. You see, it’s all in the detail: a little cut here, a little cut there, and the garments become a weapon of mass destruction in the never-ending sex war. Sensuality is everywhere; in the soft, calf-leather kimono-style tops with the shorts, in the origami-folded leather skirts, in the leopard-prints heels, and on the tops, represented by roaring lions. The cut isn’t the only part of this collection that is so deliciously daring: fabrics are also in on it. Formichetti managed to create with leather and cotton some formidable shapes with a flair that some could even call “revolutionary”. I wouldn’t go as far. There is still a lack of the colours that one would attribute to Spring and Summer and the collection is still very strongly based on its heritage. On the accessories front, handbags have been introduced to the collection, most of the in black leather, very utilitarian, a true friend for the modern woman. All in all, a truly successful collection that promises a lot from the brand in the near future.
