“A beautiful future… a kind of soft futurism. Not cold and structured, but optimistic and forward-looking,” says Sarah Burton about her collection this season. Whereas her late boss and mentor, Lee McQueen, was also fascinated by nature, albeit the darker, more mysterious side, Sarah explores the dreamlike and organic aspects in a decidedly dramatic collection.
In perhaps her boldest collection since taking over the helm of the label, Sarah created grandiose works of arctic couture in frilly, floral forms. High collar furs and frothy pouf skirts of muslin and maribou feathers were reined in with the skillful application of nipped waists, pin-tucking, and pleating. An interplay of luxe textures and materials, particularly Mongolian lamb, goat, and ostrich fur, as well as pony skin on leather, also contributed to the collection’s magical spectacle.
On the practical side of things, aside from putting on a spellbinding show, Burton has also created a more commercial version of the runway ideas, including everything from jeans and jackets to floral knitted dresses and tailored outerwear.