Everyone knows a Balmain collection is all about sculptural shoulders. This season, though, under Olivier Rousteing’s creative eye, the trademark jacket has been redesigned to form a boxier, slightly oversized, silhouette. Manifested in both jackets and blazers, the outerwear came in an array of colors and designs, from quilted needlepoint and exaggerated pockets to Baroque prints and cream-colored snake skin. These were offset with sinuous textured pants and velvet skirts, all embellished with Fabergé egg-style embroidery—another detail the Balmain label is famous for.
All in all, Rousteing, on his second runway season as Balmain’s designer, has managed to infuse a fresher, more laidback appeal to the label, with a selection of balanced, high-low mixed pieces.