There’s no better source of inspiration than one’s own world. Glenn Martens broke into the fashion world with his debut collection for A/W 2012-2013 by doing just that: dissecting his personal preferations and settling down the codes he wished to follow for all the future seasons. As he states to Trendland, he came to the conclusion that his personal world is very much colored by the city he grew up in: Bruges. The city is a medieval metropolis, one of the richest city’s of the dark ages. It fell asleep at the beginning of the Renaissance due to an economical crisis (the river leading to it’s harbour sanded).
The metropolis became a little provincial town of small interest. Industrial revolution passed it by so it stayed until now as if people left it back in the 1600’s. Still all is swimming in the sleek shadows of the austere Gothic architecture of the streets. This duality, this clinch of two worlds, a surreal feeling, is definitely a strong aspect of what he wishes to represent in his collections.
The materials he chose to work with were very much representative of his vision: he used moiré, a very classic, slightly old-fashioned couture kind of silk for bomber jackets and sportive pants. More handcrafted pieces, like bustier dresses have been made out of nylon. The aim, as he says, was to reflect the duality, clinch of opposite worlds. As for the future? Continue experimenting and creating by staying true to the label’s message.
I love women, love see a woman smiling because she feels good, because she feels beautiful. I hope my clothes make women feel great in that way. I strongly believe in elegance… of course it needs to have a little twist.
“I’m an interior architect from former studies so i’m slightly obsessed by construction. My patterns are often quite researched but nevertheless it’s from major importance that everything feels comfortable to wear. Even though some pieces look architectural in cut, the fit is still loose. A lot of pieces are adaptable to the own person of the woman wearing it. Of course i want the image we present to be strong and authentic. But still each piece on it’s own is very versatile and adaptable to different wardrobes, feelings and women.”