David Koma‘s past collection’s have often embodied a powerful, confident woman through sculptural and heavily embellished designs. So his Spring/Summer 2011 show at London Fashion Week opened with a change of scene as feminine ‘ballerina inspired’ sugary pink dresses floated down the runway.
Pleated peplums and fitted bodices completed a symmetrical look in sheer organza fabrics and wool. The BA and MA Central Saint Martins graduate claimed his inspiration for spring/summer was “Fernand Léger, spiral staircases and chiaroscuro.” which is seen in Art Deco cut-out shapes and silhouettes.
The tutu-esque designs soon developed into more of a Koma signature statement with bold graphic prints and geometric shapes. Flashes of yellow to add a summery palette and revealing linear neck lines for the flesh factor.
Yellow turned to gold lamé python print for a heavily adorned comeback of David’s embellishments. Almost bionic in print the final few designs show a diversity from the first. A contrast between organza and leather and pink and black, which shows the exploration in new designer Koma’s work with him pushing boundaries and “challenging” himself “in every aspect of the design process.”