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Gianfranco Ferrè F/W 2012It will be a sharply styled winter over at Gianfranco Ferre’s. And everything will be about fabric folds and the effect that reflection creates on darkly hued garments. This collection of Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi was not about the color palette. It was about the impeccably styled confidence of the woman inside these designs. [...]
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Prada F/W 2012Prada’s F/W 2012 collection was another tour de force, as Navajo/PopArt inspired geometric prints, tailored and bejeweled, embroidered and chunky took the spotlight. There were the obligatory black pieces, all embellished with crystals and plexiglass chips, but color was the main attraction here: mustards, blues, and indigo’s. Dresses and skirts over slim pants, stiff military [...]
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N°21 F/W 2012Alessandro dell’Acqua’s 2 year old line, N°21, is heavy on simplicity and wearable street style. F/W 2012 showed masculine fabrics and boxy cuts on a feminine silhouette. Dell’Acqua strives for a perfect balance between the male (bomber jackets in tweed), and female (short hemlines, LBD’s), keeping it all clean and modern. Shown with virtually no [...]
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Marni F/W 2012Consuelo Castiglioni has always been fashion’s intellect, with a feminine and utilitarian point of view. For Marni’s F/W 2012 she changed it up a bit, opting for more color-blocked looks with a 60′s sensibility. The prints still had a voice, but the real story was the exaggerated, voluminous architectural shapes which echoed the curious and [...]
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Marco de Vincenzo F/W 2012The sophistication of Marco de Vincenzo’s F/W 2012 collection was evident in the form of slim and minimalistic silhouettes. Monochromatic or not (mainly ranging in the tones of black, white and nude), the geometrical patterns on the designs had a two-folded role: both textural and visual.
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Pucci F/W 2012Peter Dundas created what seemed to be statement pieces: anything more than that on the Pucci woman would probably be redundant. Even though there’s a slight change of designing course and there’s a bit more of covering-up, there’s no lack of sheer and deep cuts, as well as crocodile prints and leather.
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Gabriele Colangelo F/W 2012Breezy and bright was Gabriele Colangelo’s F/W 2012 collection. Light blue and orange pastels took over coats and monochromatic suits, emphasizing on the fabrics and silhouette. Clearly Colangelo put some serious thought behind this collection and went further than the common, current trends. New proportions and gradient color-blocking was the result.
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Francesco Scognamiglio F/W 2012Toned down, in comparison to his previous collections, Francesco Scognamiglio’s F/W 2012 collection emphasized on the shape: boxy coats (which were on the spotlight) covered the models up while deep skirt cuts gave out a hint of sensuality. The color palette ranged in safe dark hues, whites and unexpected splashes of neon. Brightest example: the [...]
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Sportmax F/W 2012Sportmax’s (Max Mara’s baby sister) inception was based on affordable outerwear, with a sporty street style that prides itself on quality, from the construction to the fabrics, with a mantra of care and precision. For F/W 2012, technology stirred the pot, with neoprene being a big part of the textiles. There was a lot of [...]
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Ter Et Bantine F/W 2012Manuela Arcari is the designer behind Ter et Bantine, an Italian brand which has had a presence of over 20 years. Her aesthetic is anti-uniform, dark and structured, extremely well constructed and she is very consistent. If you prefer armour like clothing with a serious backbone and extremely luxurious fabric, this is your brand. My [...]
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Trussardi F/W 2012Trussardi, the Italian leather goods company which celebrated its 100th birthday last year, is all about strong tailoring. Umit Benan, in a follow up to his debut collection as Creative Director, offered monochromatic suiting in grey, rust, orange, black and cream. Varying textures were layered on: collared shirts and wool ribbed sweaters came under jackets, [...]
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Jil Sander F/W 2012R af Simons last collection for Jil Sander was perhaps the seasons loveliest, most serene, wearable and engaging collection. It was filled with long life pieces, those that will be handed down to daughters and grand daughters, it’s longevity is evident in it’s classic silhouettes, 1950′s haute couture inspired, designed with lack of trend and [...]