Q: The designs Mary Katrantzou creates, reflect the aesthetics of a vivid imagination and linking them to surrealism comes naturally. For your first teaming-up there was the “Surreal Planes” and now “The Surrealist Ideal”. Tell me a little bit about its concept.

EM: Well the idea for me originally was to set out to make photographs that reflected Mary’s surrealist prints- in that the photographs had to also exist in a weird “in between” realm. In between photography and other mediums, painting, illustration, new technologies… so the idea in the first collaboration was to match her garments with interiors- creating patterns and inside worlds that reflected her own patterns. With the latest shoot, I wanted to expand into an other-worldly realm that wasn’t confined to reality- or to a physical reality.

Q: What does this “Ideal” represent for you?
 
EM: The ideal I was referring to in the title stems from the Surrealist Manifesto written by Andre Breton in 1924. Its not necessarily a personal ideal, but rather a reference to the Surrealist ideals that were set forth by a group of Parisian painters- Dali, Breton, etc.

TL: For the first series with M.Katrantzou’s designs, “Surreal Planes”, you stated that it signified a different direction in your own work. What is different now, two collaborations later?

EM: Each collaboration pushes a little further in concept, and form. Whether the color and post work is pushed further- or the flattening effects are developed further- the latest shoot is an example of just taking what we have done before and exponentially removing it further from traditional fashion imagery.

TL: I was particularly drawn to the last image of the series, the darkest and most elongated one. In this surreal world you created, what would this dark, enchanting place be and, what was this woman in Mary Katrantzou dress and a spectacular headpiece doing there?

EM: This image was in reference to the early Catholic myth of ‘The High Priestess’, who was actually supposedly alive and the only female Pope to exist in the Catholic church- but was later discredited after she was murdered by the Church upon being discovered that she was in fact not a man. This image has been something I have wanted to create for a long time, as Im very interested in this historical character and what she represents today- the idea that there was a female Pope is quite intriguing….

Q: Are there any plans for more surreal series with M. Katrantzou in the future?
EM: Yes, definitely. We will be continuing our collaborations for a while =) Much more to look forward to…

EDITORIAL | Permalink | One comment |

Mary Katrantzou F/W 2012 collection was by far one of the most varied and visually dynamic collections of London Fashion Week.

It’s not only about the initial ‘bang’ of the prints but the details you find on your second, third and fourth glances. Each and every piece appears to have endless layers, tapering and unique tailoring.

As well as this, the prints are softly drawn, then move onto the photographic and geometric motif’s. Typewriters, spoons, dragon flies, bows and diamonds are seamlessly integrated with softer lines (...) Read More about Mary Katrantzou F/W 2012 (70 words)

RUNWAY | Permalink | No comment |

By now you should know our love for Mary Katrantzou since her very first show when she was still at St Martins to her latest F/W 2011 collection. While its pretty rare to see Mary pieces outside the runways (she has not shot a lookbook yet), when you see an editorial of her collection, you are instantly struck. That’s why this series by(...) Read More about Mary Katrantzou by Erik Madigan Heck (170 words)

DESIGNERS, EDITORIAL, FEATURED | Permalink | 12 comments |

I have to ask myself, will it ever be too much? Will I ever see a Mary Katrantzou‘s collection and feel like she just went too far? I really really doubt it but she mixes so much together I don’t even know how it works. Every Katrantzou look pours out on the runway like a brilliant well of inspiration. Structured silhouettes with multiple print concepts layered to perfection show her indispensable role

(...) Read More about Mary Katrantzou F/W 2011 (36 words)

RUNWAY | Permalink | 4 comments |

It’s not the first time that we review the amazing Mary Katrantzou, and to tell you the truth, we kind of discovered her back in 2008, when she was graduating from Central St Martins. Since then, well, she became one of the most watched UK talents, selling in the best luxury stores worldwide. Katranzou is(...) Read More about Mary Katrantzou Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear (98 words)

RUNWAY | Permalink | 4 comments |

Mary Katrantzou’s AW 10/11 collection was based around 18th century portraiture and in particular Madame de Pompadour and the paintings of Fragonard and Nattier. At Mary Katrantzou’s exhibition space, she revealed to me  ‘The prints are baroque inspired. I wanted to challenge myself by taking dresses the women and men used to wear and make it relevant for a  21st century woman’

(...) Read More about Mary Katrantzou AW 10/11 [Exclusive] (169 words)

EXCLUSIVITY, RUNWAY | Permalink | One comment |

To celebrate London Fashion Week, Selfridges have teamed up with AnOther Magazine for a very special installation at the London store. As a salute to British talent, beautiful actress du jour Tilda Swinton will grace the cover of AnOther shot by Craig McDean, wearing dresses made exclusively by British designers; (...) Read More about AnOther Magazine New Issue (47 words)

BOOK & MAG, EDITORIAL, WEB | Permalink | 2 comments |

I introduced you to Mary Katrantzou, the brilliant graduating MA student from Central Saint Martins a few months back.  I was in complete awe for weeks after I discovered her, similar to how I felt when I discovered Christoper Kane in the same place a few years ago. There are some designers that(...) Read More about Mary Katrantzou SS09 Collection (69 words)

DESIGNERS, FEATURED | Permalink | 2 comments |

There is one thing I look forward to more than anything else every Fall Fashion Week Presentation , Central Saint Martins Fashion Week Show is one place I can always expect to be surprised, inspired, and assured that our generation will, in fact, leave a mark in the crazy industry we still call fashion. The show has this feeling of freedom of expression and journey of concept. Not to say that the entire show prescribes this kind of sensation but there is always at least one shinning star, an undeniable success story to be written.

(...) Read More about Central Saint Martins 2008 Shinning Star (94 words)

FASHION, RUNWAY | Permalink | No comment |