Marios Schwab is certainly under the spotlight at the moment. Becoming creative director for Halston means he had a debut to prepare for New York fashion week and a show for his own label at London fashion week just a week apart.
For this collection Schwab seemed to go back to his Austrian roots. with traditional tailoring of simple and sharp shapes and silhouettes… Schwab seemed to dull down on layering and quirky prints to make way for crisp white shirts, delicate embroideries, fur jacket and cropped boleros. Which truly made a demure and lady like collection. Velvet and brocade dresses hint at his Austrian background. Inspired by techniques he was taught whilst learning the trade at the age of 15. They bring out a luxurious feel to the collection which has been Influenced by “English roses and vanitas.”
Corsets and embellishments roused the simplicity of the collection. Concentrating on a more structured and tailored look. With focus on an exposed leg most of the detail was kept above the waist. Most noticeable to me were the unusual curved bolero jackets, which Marios refers to as ‘Alien Necklines’ and ‘L’ shaped collars on thick fur coats. Within a Colour palette of dove greys, mink, petrol blue and ruby red Schwab is bang on trend for Autumn/Winter.