With new designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim stepping up to the plate at Kenzo, the S/S 2012 collection was bound to shake things up a bit. The Franco-Japanese label itself, founded by Kenzo Takada, already brings an East meets West aesthetic. But thanks to the two new creative directors—known to be the curators of cool—the line has also been injected with fresh touches of urban wear, youthful shapes, and eye-catching new prints.
“Growing up in the suburbs of LA, we looked at a lot of counter culture, and there is a lot of that in the collection,” says Humberto. So although they did pay homage to the line’s well-loved maxi trousers, color blocks, and prints, the two “reinterpreted this by bringing in elements from [their] own upbringing.” This translated into bright utility windbreaker jackets, geometric patterned skirts and dresses, a selection of mid-length shorts and skirts, and ultra-wide leg pants. The usual floral prints were also replaced with other nature elements of seashells, fishnets, and bird prints—all a personal favorite of the new designers.
The mini show was set in the courtyard of the house’s Rue Vivienne headquarters, where the models waved in greeting to all the visitors and gigantic block letters of K, E, N, Z, and O were strewn about. And as if that weren’t enough, Humberto and Carol drew from the help of their friends to make their launch one to remember, with Jason Schwartzman in charge of the music, Spike Jonze documenting the entire event, and Chloë Sevigny closing the show in a royal blue taffeta jumpsuit.
